The apartments Anthi Maria situated just 50 metres from the beach. My apartment door is at top left corner.

Sunday 27th June.  07:00 Hrs (+2 GMT)
 

I wonder what lives in here?

At last! I'm sat on the balcony of my apartment with the sea to the front of me and trees to my back, well more or less, *smiles*. I arrived here about 30 minutes ago following a long transfer from the airport. I am unpacked, settled in and drinking a cup of tea. When I first thought of having this mid-year break, returning here was not paramount in my mind, but the opportunity just popped up one night. I'm sure I was drawn back here. I've never returned to the same place twice, outside of the UK, ever.

As I look out to sea, below me and about 50 metres away, is the sea, and a small harbour of sorts, with a few boats riding the gentle swell of an early morning breeze. My apartment is tucked into the northern side of a bay that is cradled by tall, stark cliffs (hills) that loom about 250 metres above us. They are barren except for a narrow, lush belt of trees sandwiched on a narrow strip of level ground betwixt them and the seashore at their very base. The cliffs trace the outline of the bay as it sweeps away into the distance to my left. There are a few other buildings dotted upon this narrow corridor that also carries the coast road south.
 

The plane touched down at Rhodes airport at 03:30 local time, some 60 minutes ahead of schedule. It seems that we had a tail wind to help us *grin*. After waiting a long time for the luggage to arrive it was time to find the transfer coach and settle down for a long ride. Pefkos is the 'last resort' on the route. One huge benefit of all that though was being able to see the sunrise. As the coach passed the bay at Lindos (Vliha Bay) I saw a red glow on the seaward horizon. Within minutes this glow had turned into a fiery red ball as the sun climbed into the sky and lit the calm morning waters with a multitude of soft greens and blues and reds. It was too bad that my camera was in my luggage, it was the most beautiful sunrise I ever saw.
 

I have just returned from a short stroll to the beach and village centre. There are several things that stand out from my walk. The first is the quiet. Yes its early but there are no sounds of modern urban living. No traffic, no pounding beat of overload music, no sirens and no aircraft noise. All that one could hear was the sounds of the birds, the insects, the waves lapping the sand and the wind in the trees. I guess that will change later in the day. The other outstanding feature was the beauty and brightness of the flowers. Gardens display bougainvillea, mimosa and roses. There is sweetly scented jasmine everywhere and most surprisingly, Passion Flowers and Morning Glory growing wild like common convolvulus. All this is set against a tableau of stark grey hills, bright blue skies and emerald coloured water, it is no wonder that I came back here. It is beautiful.

Monday 28th June. 11:00
Crikey!! I didn't expect 'that' last night. As the sun set so a breeze picked up that turned into a full scale gale overnight. By the time I got back to the apartment after dinner and a few drinks it was really blowing hard. I am told this morning that it got worse and that it was strong enough to pick up tables and move them around. I'm glad that the apartment is away from the village centre. Upside: At least the room wasn't to hot and I was able to have the patio doors open all night. *grin*

I went a place I used a lot last year (Alexandras Bar) and was recognised immediately. I was greeted with warm hugs and shakes of the hand and made to feel like a long lost friend. That was nice. I ate a good meal, had a few drinks and got a bit tipsy as we laughed and chatted all night. When it was time for me to go I was presented with a bill for 5 Euros. What a bargain, LOL.

This morning I feel refreshed and ready to go and explore however I don't think I shall go far today but one never knows.

Tuesday 29th June. 06:30
I had a very lazy day yesterday (Monday). After writing my previous entry I went to the travel office to hire a safe deposit box to secure my passport and wallet. This isn't something I'd ever done before but it felt right to do so this time. Crime here in Pefkos is virtually non existent with the type of people who come here, mainly couples and families, but the apartment is just a little to remote from the village centre and open to the beach, so its a case of safety first. Following that it was time for a leisurely brunch before spending the rest of the afternoon on the beach. The (Sunday) overnight wind, though calmed some, remained and gusted strongly enough to lift some sand with it. I returned to the apartment at about 18:30. I seemed to have spent most of the afternoon and early evening dozing, which is quite something considering I got 10 hours straight of sleep Sunday night.

I ate on the roof garden of one of the best restaurants in the village last night, a place called 'Enigma'. The food was excellent but the service a little slow, but then again it was very full. I drank no alcohol and returned to the apartment for a reasonably early night.

It is still quite windy as I sit here this morning and watch the day unfold before me. The shadows from the hills are shortening as the sun creeps higher into the sky from behind me. I am up early because I am taking a boat trip today. It is an 8 hour jaunt up the coast to a couple of remote sandy beaches and a village to eat. That's all I know about it at the moment.

I think I've crashed from Friday night. I felt it sweep over me whilst in the restaurant last night. I got irritable and critical for no reason. I'm not sure how I'm feeling yet this morning, other than a little sad, but I'm sure that I'll cheer as the day goes on.

09:45.
I'm sat on the prow of a boat in St Paul's Bay, Lindos, waiting for the skipper to shout "Weigh Anchor" just so that I can shout back ..... "28 pounds" LOL, thank you pip *smiles*

Before and above me, balancing upon a sheer cliff, towers the Lindos Acropolis. A site that on first view looks like a Crusaders Castle. It is but within it is an ancient Greek Acropolis that pre-dates the castle by a 2000 years or more. Everyone has occupied the site from the Greeks to Romans to the Byzantines to the Germans. To my right is a small chapel with a religious festival going on. It is apparently St Paul's Day here so they are venerating their saint. It is said that Paul the Apostle first landed in this bay on his quest to bring the word of Jesus to these shore.

19:00

The day on the boat was fun and lazy, just as described. From Lindos 'we' motored north across Vliha Bay to Haraki Beach for a 'swim stop'. This is a near deserted beach with warm shallow waters and soft golden sand. Following that it was a trip into Haraki Village for some coffee and a bite to eat. Haraki is a purpose built tourist village that consists of just one graceful arc of properties and shops fringing the small bay. The boat had to moor outside of the bay (local regulations) and the short stroll into the village revealed some past destroyed development. Research revealed that Haraki was the site of the prime German Airbase during the WW2 occupation..

Ever onward we travelled slowly to Agathi beach where the waters were Aquamarine and Turquoise coloured. I didn't swim here because the boat moored in deeper waters and way out of my depth. Mind you, it's almost impossible to sink in the Mediterranean Sea anyways. Ho hum!!

On the return journey to Lindos, the boat hugged the coastline and I just marvelled at the majesty and ruggedness of the cliffs and rocks.
 

Wednesday 30th June.

An unforgettable start to the day. I awoke with severe cramps in my right calf and foot that made me cry out aloud. Although I drank plenty of water yesterday I obviously didn't drink enough to combat the dehydration from the sun and wind on the boat. I was feeling pretty groggy and I ached from the hips downwards. I pottered for a while just making tea, limping with it to the balcony and sitting watching the sea whilst drinking it. Then I repeated the cycle until I could walk well enough to go for an early stroll to try and get rid of the aches and pains. By and large I succeeded but on my return I still ached at the hips so I took a couple of pain killers and went back to bed for a couple of hours. That sorted me out.

I resolved to have another walk but only got as far as the end of the 'next beach' before the sun and waters seduced me. I spent the whole afternoon just sitting and swimming and watching. Some of the things that I've seen are a single jellyfish in a small, calm cove, unusual in these waters), brought in by the wind, a pair of beautiful Jays, several large Gecko type lizards (about a foot long, nose to tail) more than a dozen different types of fish as I snorkelled the shallow waters, shrimps and a grass hopper about 3 inches long!!

I left the beach at sundown and returned to the apartment to shower and freshen up. I strolled into the village and sought out a Chinese restaurant that Id seen during one of my walks. I sat on the roof terrace and enjoyed a light dinner of Spare Ribs followed by Crispy Duck Pancakes. The restaurant had a lovely ambience. It was decorated in 'tradition' oriental style with reds and gold's predominating and large red lanterns swaying in the wind. There was soft oriental music playing in the background and the air was sweet with some kind of incense. This outdoor living is rather beguiling, yanno? After my meal and a couple of beers, it was back to the apartment for an early'ish night (it was still gone eleven when I finished eating). I had a car booked for the next two days and was determined to get a good nights sleep and an early start to some serious exploring.

Thursday 1st July 08:00

I've hired a car for today and Friday. I plan on motoring to the Butterfly Valley of Peterlourdes about 45 minutes north of Pefkos. It is said to be a Pine cloaked gorge of extra-ordinary beauty, with a small river running through the centre of it, where a particular type of butterfly comes in June and July to mate and lay its eggs. Apparently they stick themselves to onto the Pine sap of the trees by their thousands. From there I plan to the west (Aegean) side of the island and just cruise the coast road back to here, stopping as my fancy takes me.
 

Epta Piges or Seven Springs

On my way to Petalourdes I decided to divert to a place called Epta Piges or Seven Springs. This is a cool shady area within the Pine Forest between Colymbia and Archipolis. Initially, I missed the turning for it and had to turn around for a second try. For a beauty spot, it is very poorly signposted, thank goodness. It keeps it quieter that way. As its name implies, it is the source of seven springs that converge via small waterfalls and which have been channelled to feed a man made lake that was used to irrigate the Columbia Plain. The water is fed to the lake by means of a long narrow tunnel. through an adjacent hill. For the brave (and non-claustrophobic) the challenge is to wade through the tunnel, ankle deep in water and on pebbles, to the lake beyond. It is only just big enough for a man to walk through. I had to stoop and my shoulders were all but rubbing both sides. It is not possible to see one end of the tunnel from the other and one is pitched into total blackness for some distance before seeing the exit. It was quite a rush for me.

The lake at the far end is surrounded by woodlands and is as peaceful a place as one could ever find. I would have liked to swim in it but didnt decided that may not be a good idea as I didn't have a towel or change of clothes. As it was, I had left my shoes at the tunnel entrance and had to endure the walk back over ground on a hot, stony and pine strewn path. As I picked my way along the path laughing, 'ouching' and 'owwing' as I went, a Swedish couple behind me asked whether the ground was hard going. DOH!! Grinning I turned and said it was and we laughed at my trusting foolishness for leaving my shoes. The man then offered me his beach shoes to wear back to the entrance. I was stunned and I accepted gratefully this strangers offer and the 3 of us wandered back chatting about life.

Recovering my shoes I offered to buy my new friends a coffee as reward for their kindness but they would have none of it and simply said their farewells and wandered off. I never the less treated myself to a drink and sat in the shade for a while just enjoying the peace of the place before moving on.

Petaloudes, the valley of the butterflies

I continued my journey onwards to Petalourdes, reputedly a green and streamed valley/gorge which attracts tens of thousands of a particular 'butterfly' during the summer months and, sadly, thousands of human visitors every year. I say 'sadly' because even the authorities admit that human intervention is depleting the butterfly population. I wasn't to be disappointed. The valley must be one of natures most beautiful gifts to Rhodes.

According to the literature, "the butterflies attracted here and attach themselves to any spare space belong to the species Callimorpha Quadripunctaria. They live wherever they can find the Storax tree (Liquidambar Orientalis or "Oriental Sweet Gum") which has a characteristically strong scent produced by a resin which it weeps and with which the local churches use to make frankincense. In June, July and August this valley is the natural habit of thousands of these Butterflies which are here in order to mate and breed. They lay their eggs in September. Spring sees them pupate and they spread throughout the surrounding area. By June they are full-blown butterflies and the heat and the smell of the Storax draw them back to the valley to repeat the cycle."

These butterflies are nocturnal and travel in the night, which by my mind makes them moths. Another point that I noticed about them was that they fold their wings back when they settle. I thought only moths did that? (The main studies of this butterfly was been carried out by a German entomologist, name not given, who spent two seasons watching them. I wonder if he knew the difference between a moth and a butterfly, *grin*. (Interestingly, since returning and looking the butterfly up on the web, I have seen it called the 'Jersey Tiger')

I wandered through the valley and along the track which climbed upwards, and in two km brings you to the Kalopetra Monastery. This was built in 1784 by the exiled Greek Prince of Walachia, Alexander Ypsilantis. There is a small Cafenion. From here you'll have the most magnificent view down the valley. I sat and rested awhile and refreshed myself with some freshly squeezed orange juice.

Making my way back down through the Monastery gardens, I retraced my steps back through the valley to my car. From here it was time to make my way back slowly down the Aegean (West) Coast of the island where the seas are always rough.

I took a quiet drive back following the coast road south, sometimes cutting inland for a few miles and then driving right on the shore line again. Rhodes main roads are not like those in the UK. They are generally single carriageway each way and just about as wise as the average residential road. Mostly they are tarmac but that isn't a guarantee

Waterfall at Petalourdes

Friday 2nd July

Rhodes Old Town

The following passage is taken from Tourist Information Leaflets.

"There are many reasons why Rhodes Island is the most popular resort of the Mediterranean. The natural surroundings include crystal clear beaches, many parks (in Rhodes town) and the bright sun, adding to that is the warm hospitality of the islanders themselves. The city of Rhodes is one of the biggest municipalities of all the Greek islands. It is the financial and cultural centre of the south eastern Aegean and successfully combines a lively present with a richly historical past.

 The city of Rhodes town has an excellent tourist infrastructure and offers a wide variety of entertainment such as night life, sports, cultural  events and day trips to wonderful Lindos and neighbouring  islands. Highly recommend to visit is Simi Island for a day trip. Finally, visitors have the opportunity to learn something of the colourful history of the city of Rhodes, visit the museums, or go sightseeing

The earlier Byzantine city was extended, and the walls fortified, by the Knights of Saint John in the 14th and 15th centuries, creating the medieval city of Rhodes we see today. Eleven Gates lead to the interior which is, in turn, divided into two sectors: the Colloquium, where the knights lived and where the most important Knights houses are still to be found, and the "Burgh”, the main city. The old Town, as the locals call it, is today one of the best preserved fortified medieval towns and is included in UNESCO list of Word Heritage Sites. Walking the cobbled streets visitors can admire the magnificent buildings of the Knights, the moat and walls with their ramparts, the Byzantine churches and the mosques, the squares, the gardens and the courtyards of the houses. The feeling is very mush as though the clock has stopped somewhere in the past, but at the same time the visitor discovers that this unique complex is a vibrant town, full of surprises, and just crying out for exploration.

The Grand Masters Palace, the most imposing edifice in the Old town, was the headquarters of the leader of the Order of the Knights of Saint John and at the same time a formidable  citadel. It was built in the 14th century on the ruins of a Byzantine fort. It consists of two storeys  with a large internal courtyard. It was destroyed in the period of Turkish rule and rebuilt in the 1930's in the magnificent style we see now. Today the Palace is a museum and its many rooms contain important archaeological finds from ancient and Medieval Rhodes.

Follow the the paved alleyways, through gate ways and colonnades, through squares and obscure courtyards next to impregnable walls and Byzantine churches. You feel that you are living in the troubled past of this place, and yet at the same time you discover that this city is still inhabited, vibrant with it's lively commercial activity and culture, the Archaeological Museum, the Art Gallery, the Museum of the Folk Art and it's night life. It is very much alive and in the present

Just out side of the old city of Rhodes you can see the Fishing harbour and the boats of some of the people who still fish for sponges."

My day in Rhodes Old Town was purely for shopping and wandering the streets of this extra-ordinary place. When I arrived in town, I parked the car behind the stadium where the parking is still free of charge and walked the last mile or so to one of the 'back  gates' of the old city where I made my way along passages, a route remembered from my last visit, to the town square. One has to be careful when wandering these old passages because although cars, in general, are banned from the Old Town streets, scooters and motorcycles are not and they tend to wend their way through these narrow streets and around the blind corners with no regard for anyone but themselves.

I spent the entire day strolling, shopping and sight seeing. I went out to the harbour areas and had a paddle in the cool waters. I went back into the heart of the Old Town and sat and ate whilst watching the world walk by. It was a very pleasant day.

Eventually it was time to return to Pefkos. I resisted the urge to until stay after nightfall because of driving through the city streets in the dark. It was far too manic for me. As it was, I nearly took a woman off her scooter on the way in to the centre because she decided to come up on my right side to turn left across my nose as I was stationary and indicating at a junction to turn right.

Friday evening was spent quietly, reflecting upon the week and saying my farewells a day early.

Sunday 4th July

I am back at my flat. Yesterday (Saturday) was a nightmare day. I had to vacate my apartment by noon therefore I spent the morning pottering and packing my things in my bag. It was a work of art *grin*. I just ‘knew’ I should have taken my small shoulder bag as well. My bag was collected and deposited at the collection point for onward travel later in the day. It was all very organized. My problem now was to fill the day whilst waiting for the transfer coach at 01:10 Sunday morning!

I spent most of the daylight hours after midday on the beach reading. I had picked up a book from the airport on my way out but hadn’t even touched it. It turned out to be one of those books that chooses when ‘they’ want to be read. I couldn’t put it down once I started turning the pages. I read it with pen in hand and was constantly marking passages and lines of text. It was a novel of a ‘simple shepherd boy who dreamed of traveling the world in search of a treasure as extravagant as any found’. In reality, it is a clever treatise about ‘the essential wisdom of listening to ones heart, learning to read the omens strewn along life’s path and above all, following ones dreams’. As an observation on human behavior, it is as good as Voltaire’s ‘Candide’. It is called The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho.

The day passed slowly. I ate lightly several times, went to the internet café and strolled the streets at sundown looking for a quiet place to settle and pass the evening. I choose the nearest café to the pickup point. Eventually the transfer coach arrived and the slow journey to Rhodes Airport began. It took 2 ½ hours but I was able to sleep some of the time which was just as well because I was beginning to feel very tired and nauseous. We arrived at the airport at about 3:30 whilst the flight time off the island was scheduled for 05:15. It was on time.

On the plane I just crashed as best I could and cat napped the whole way back, ignoring the food served but accepting tea and water when offered.

Back at Gatwick and the luggage was lost for an hour! Then, when that was finally sorted I managed to lose my phone from my pocket in the bus to the car park so I had to go in search of that. I found it but it was 10:30 before I got on my way home. A quick stop for a very strong coffee and it was about 12:30 when I eventually stepped into the flat. I think so anyway. I unpacked, sorted out dirty laundry etc, made a couple of phone calls and collapsed on my bed for a couple of hours sleep. I set my alarm for 5:30 and when I awoke realized I was still on Greek time!!

I went and delivered presents to K, V and C earlier and chatted and caught up with life with them all. I enjoyed that. I’m guilty of not seeing them enough recently.

And that, as they say, is the end of my week away in the sun. Thank you for allowing me to share it.

The view from my balcony

A nice apartment with beautiful flowers

Roadside Rhodes Rhododendrons

Sun set. This is what brought me back, I'm sure

One of the two main beaches

The day unfolds

Pefkos

"Weigh Anchor" .................

                                                " .............. 28pounds"

Lindos Acropolis

St Paul's Chapel

Haraki Bay

Distant Haraki Village

Is this a grasshopper or a locust?

Some folk swimming from a glass bottom boat

Entrance to Seven Springs

The tunnel entrance

The waters channelled

The beautiful  lake amongst the woodland

I wonder whose spirit is locked into this tree?

Source of the Springs

Butterflies on the shady side of an old tree

View from Kalopetra Monastery

Steps in the Monastery Garden

Rhododendrons

One of the 11 Gates into the Old Town

The Outer Moat

The Grand Masters Palace Entrance

Inner courtyard Of The Grand Masters Palace

Byzantine Recycling

Typical backstreet

Rhodes Old Town Square

Balconies and Passageways

A Turkish Day tripper